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Zavkhan Trekking Newsletter, May 2009 Read our previous newsletter here
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| "Thanks so much again for a fantastic and memorable holiday - we're still reeling from it all I think and trying to take it in. Had a look at our (843!) photos and still can't quite believe we were there..." (Sally T, 2008) | |
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Hello Everyone, For those of you who will be joining us in Mongolia this year, I hope your plans are coming along well. For the rest of you who are still trying to decide, it isn't too late! Some trips are full but others still have availability. In this edition we introduce some of the people from Zavkhan aimag (province) who make our rides so memorable (next time we will introduce our Altai friends). Great horses and beautiful riding country are important, and so too are the people who accompany us. Our translators and wranglers, and most of our drivers, come from Zavkhan, so they know these areas intimately. But first a brief mention of one of Mongolia's more accessible national parks. |
Riding in Zavkhan |
 takhi |
Khustai National Park This year we will be visiting Khustai National Park, near Ulaanbaatar, on some of our trips. This is the home of the takhi or Przewalski's horse, the only true wild horse in the world. Other breeds such as New Zealand's Kaimanawa horse lay claim to being wild but are actually domestic animals which have become feral. The takhi on the other hand is the fore-runner of the domestic horse and is genetically distinct. After becoming extinct in the wild, they have been reintroduced to Mongolia in the last few years, and their population is slowly building. As a result of international funding for protection of the takhi, other wildlife in the park is also thriving. You have a good chance of spotting species which are becoming increasingly rare elsewhere, including wolves, elk, and numerous marmots. |
| Our Team During our riding trips you will get to know the local people who make it all come together. Wranglers are responsible for the daily care of the horses. They keep them fed and watered, saddle them (with your help if you wish), and make sure they are well cared-for in every way. In most cases they know each horse from birth. But their role is wider than simply looking after the horses, they will also be watching out for your safety. We regularly work with several wranglers, including Tsoj, Dondov and his son Adiya. They work as herdsmen with their families when not on riding trips with us. Riding is part of everyday life in Mongolia, so they are incomparable horsemen.
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 Dondov, wrangler |
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Tsoj, wrangler |
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Olziibayar with her fabulous purple del |
A good translator is essential when it comes to discussing routes with our drivers and wranglers. But they are also there to help you gain an understanding of Mongolia. Many of the traditions and rituals of nomadic life are difficult for outsiders to understand. Someone who is born and bred in the area is able to provide fascinating insights into the patterns of daily life happening around you. Both our translators in Zavkhan are local women with a wealth of knowledge about the area and Mongolia in general. If you would like to learn a little of the language while we ride, they will be happy to help. |
| Olziibayar (Olzii) works
for World Vision in Zavkhan when not helping us with riding trips.
"Olzii was really special and told us such a lot about Mongolian life and
she was so cheerful and good at everything she did..." (Alexa C 2008). Mandakhnar (Mandy) works for an internationally-funded Regional Economic Development Programme. "I especially liked learning the language from Mandy and playing cards although the actual rules are still a mystery to me … if indeed there were any!" (Alex J 2008). |
Mandakhnar |
 Burnee and Ganbaa, drivers |
Experienced drivers and
reliable four-wheel drive vehicles are vital when travelling in remote
areas of Mongolia. You can't call the AA, so our drivers are also
wonderful mechanics. Japanese four-wheel drives are becoming a common
sight in Ulaanbaatar, but in Zavkhan the mighty Russian-built 'furgon' is
the vehicle of choice. Once a Japanese vehicle
breaks down in Zavkhan, it's all over, whereas a furgon can always be
repaired if necessary. These tough machines are spacious and surprisingly
comfortable, given the state of the roads! |
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Charlotte and Toroo, driver |
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| Jenya
and I first met in 2000, on a trip into the Gobi desert, where he told me
of his dream to bring people to experience his beautiful country. We
eventually got things off the ground in 2004, and Jenya's partner Ogi
later joined the team. After several seasons guiding trips, they are now
managing logistics from Ulaanbaatar. In a country where bureaucracy has to
be seen to be believed, it is a difficult role. Where we would make a five
minute call to book a domestic flight, they have to enter complex
negotiations which can take days. By which time the airline will have
changed it's schedule - or even gone out of business. Guiding riders through remote mountain wilderness is perhaps the easy part! "Ogi and Jenya were charming, and had a great knowledge about their country and history" (Charlotte E 2007). |
Jenya and Ogi |
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Jennifer |
The
newest member of the team is Jennifer, from the US but living in Russia.
She is an experienced trail guide, and rides like a true Mongolian, having
spent time in the country previously. Jen joined us in the Altai last
year, and everyone agreed that she would make a valuable addition to the
team. She will be joining us on the second and third trips to Zavkhan this
year to learn more about how we do things, and then will help our friends
in Altai with the Eagle Festival trip. "Jen was excellent - a fun, genial and helpful person to have on the trip, and clearly an expert with horses" (John S 2008). |
| I have
been guiding trips since the start, and still look forward to each season
in Mongolia. My wife Sam gets to Mongolia less often than she would like,
but will help lead our exploratory trip to Zavkhan this year. I have to
admit that Sam is a far better rider than me. She learnt to ride
'properly' at a riding school in New Zealand, whereas most of my riding
experience has been in Mongolia, where the local riding style would break
all the instructor's rules. But the wonderful thing about riding in Mongolia is that most rules don't apply. What matters is that you can make your horse do what you want, when you want - even if you are slouched half out of the saddle, in true Mongolian style! |
John at the top of Maaz mountain |
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Sam |
"The way I describe it to people is that it's just like your friends who
lived in Mongolia decided to get some horses and show you around. Very
relaxed, not like a group trip at all" (Mary K 2008). "The trip with Zavkhan Trekking made my long cherished dream come true. A unique way to explore the vast landscapes and to experience many of the treasures the country offers" (Charlotte E 2007). |
| It looks like we will have a gap immediately after the Naadam Festival (11-12 July), so if anyone has ideas for an exploratory trip to somewhere new and interesting, please let me know... | |
| As always, if you know of anyone who might want to receive our newsletter, please forward it on, and get them to drop us a line at info@zavkhan.co.uk so we can add them to the mailing list. Alternatively, if you don’t want to receive the newsletter anymore, just email us and we will remove you from the list. A big thank you to past riders who contributed photos to this newsletter. | |
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Bayartai, and hope to see you in Mongolia in 2009. John and the Zavkhan Trekking Team. +64 3 3499646 (NZ) Small-group horse riding adventures in Mongolia |
Sand dunes in Zavkhan |
