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Zavkhan
Trekking Newsletter, Oct
2007
http://www.zavkhan.co.uk/
If you are having trouble reading the
newsletter try the online version
here
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It was so great to finally make
it to Mongolia... and without any disappointments. It really was off
the beaten path and we loved the interaction with the locals. The
entire trip was just perfect and everyone involved just
wonderful. We can't stop telling our
friends about it. (Heidi, USA,
2007) |
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Hi All,
The first winter snows have started to fall in
Mongolia, and another successful season has come to an end. In this
newsletter we tell you all about what we've been up to during the
year. This included exploring some previously unreachable areas of
Zavkhan by packhorse; a reconnaissance trip to the lush valleys of
the Onon-Balj National Park; and discovering a small piece of
paradise on the remote southern shore of Khar Nuur.
We finished the season with a seriously
adventurous ride in the snowy Altai Mountains and a visit to the
Eagle Hunter's festival, in western Mongolia - but we'll leave that
until the next newsletter.
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 At the hot spa (K. van't
Veer) |
 Heading for the
mountains |
In Zavkhan there are some places even the mighty
'Jaris' or Russian jeep just can't reach, so pack-horses are the
only way to get there. In September we headed up into the Arkhangai
Mountains for a spot of exploring.
After the first two days of damp weather we
settled into a routine of warm sunny days and cold clear nights. The
pack-horses did an excellent job, despite not having been used as
pack animals before. The photo to the left does not show me leading
three pack-horses, they're actually leading
themselves! |
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As we headed into the mountains the terrain
became more difficult, but nothing that the trusty Mongolian horses
(or their riders) couldn't handle. The increasing altitude made for
some great views, and the approaching autumn gave the forests a
touch of colour.
At this time of year local nomadic families graze
their herds in the lower valleys, but by late autumn begin to move
into the sheltered upper reaches of the valleys. We could see where
they had been cutting grass by hand and making small hay-stacks in
preparation for their next move. |
 No vehicles this
way... |
 Whispering
lake |
By chance we came across a lovely mountain lake,
perfect for camping for the night. It will make a great swimming
spot in summer - only one of the group was brave enough to try it in
September.
Taking pack-horses meant we couldn't match the
level of comfort we normally enjoy with a support vehicle. So toward
the end of the trip we arranged to meet our driver at the hot spa we
have visited previously, for a well-earned soak, fresh food and a
glass or two of wine.
This was our first pack-horse trip, and despite
the sometimes challenging riding and camping, everyone agreed we
should do it again in 2008. |
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In mid-July we headed to an area west of Dadal in
Khentii aimag, where we have contacts amongst the local Buriat
people. This area near the Russian border is in the Onon-Balj
National Park and turned out to be perfect for riding. It also
meant we could avoid the crowds and chaos of Ulaanbaatar's Nadaam
festival!
The hills are heavily forested, with large rivers
meandering through lush valleys. Wildlife in the area includes
deer, wild boar and bears. At this time of year the local
people do not graze their herds here, so the meadows are carpeted
with wildflowers. |
Kentii's lush
forest |
 The meandering Balj
river |
This area is easier to reach than Zavkhan, taking
only a day and a half instead of three days, making it ideal for
shorter trips. Half the distance is on a new paved road
heading west from Ulaanbaatar, but then we get back to the usual
dirt tracks as we head north. The rivers are perfect for a
combined riding-kayaking trip.
The horse in Khentii are slightly bigger than
those in Zavkhan as it's common practice to cross Mongolian mares
with Russian stallions. They are just as fun to ride and their
longer legs help with the deep river crossings!
We are looking forward to seeing more of this
area next year. |
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One of the great things about the Zavkhan region
is its amazing geographical diversity. Earlier this year we
discovered a wonderful spot to visit for some relaxation after a
hard ride. Khar Nuur (Black Lake) lies at the boundary
between the forest-steppe ecosystem and the arid deserts of western
Zavkhan.
We think it would be a shame to come all the way
to Mongolia without experiencing the countries famous deserts, so we
plan to include a night or two at this beautiful freshwater lake at
the end of future trips |
 Campsite at Khar
Nuur. |
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The golden dunes drop straight down in to the
crystal clear water of Khar Nuur. The early morning light makes this
spot a photographer's dream. Perhaps it the sense of total
isolation, but more than one person has confessed to some naked
swimming or dune rolling while off walking. For most of us it is
simply a fantastic place for a wander and a dip.
The dunes which reach the lake have come
over a mountain pass from a much larger area of dunes to the south.
The variety of animal prints coming through the pass suggests this
is a major highway for wildlife coming down to the
lake. |
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The team at Zavkhan Trekking would like to thank
everyone who came on trips with us for making 2007 such a great
year. If you haven't already sent us photos, when you get a chance
we would love to see them. We can then put together a 'best of 2007'
(including video), which we will send out to everyone. If you
have a photo page or a blog on the web and would be happy for us to
link to it, please let us know. We can try to describe the
Zavkhan riding experience, but your photos will express it so much
better!
We will be announcing our 2008 trip dates in
December's newsletter.
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As usual, if you know of anyone who
might want to receive our newsletter, please forward it on, and get
them to drop us a line at info@zavkhan.co.uk so we can
add them to the mailing list. Alternatively, if you don’t want
to receive the newsletter anymore, just email us and we will remove
you from the list. |
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